Podcast – Big Wave Surfer Greg Long Talks About His Fight Back to the Top After Nearly Drowning
Big wave surfing is a sport of confidence where participants will themselves over the edge of 50-foot mountains of water. On this episode we speak to award-winning and renowned professional big wave surfer Greg Long about what it is like to survive a near-drowning and then try to find your confidence again.
We talk about when he almost died surfing giant waves at the mysto spot of Cortes Bank, six hours off the coast of California. Greg takes you inside the two wave hold down that almost ended his life and remembers the exact decisions he made before his oxygen expired.
We dive into the process of fighting back after an almost tragic accident to get to the top again and have the confidence to surf big waves. Greg’s candor allows the listener to really gain insight into his struggles to return to form and understand how a world-class athlete shakes it off and finds fulfillment once again.
Check out this rare discussion where a top performer lets you inside his head in a very humble and candid conversation.
Listen to the show
You can listen to the show using the player above or grab it and listen on the go via one of the following options: