For years, the funky beach community of Montezuma, Costa Rica was a little known retreat that was a hideaway for hippies and backpackers looking to find “pura vida.” Today, the word is out and Montezuma is becoming a desirable location for expats seeking a true “barefoot” lifestyle.

In a country filled with stunning beaches, the sands of the southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula have to rank high on anyone’s list. Montezuma’s untouched sands have an almost lyrical quality about them that is both magnetic and compelling.

Montezuma’s Early Years

Like most of the Nicoya Peninsula, the area we now know as Montezuma was under the control of the Chorotega tribe in the pre-Columbian era. Following the Spanish Conquest in 1519-20, the surviving members of the tribe moved into the southern part of the Peninsula to escape the Spanish rule.

Throughout the 17^th century and well into the middle of the 18^th century, Montezuma remained a collection of small fishing villages. Given the geography, (steep slopes, limited outside access), the area wasn’t suitable for the growing ranching and cattle raising business that began to flourish in the central part of the Nicoya Peninsula.

In the early 1950s, Montezuma was designated as the location for a regional port as a result of the calm waters and abundant beach access. This dream would not be fully realized, however, until 1979 when a road was completed from Cobano that expanded operations to include transporting agricultural goods to Punteranas and the fast developing Central Valley.

The Transformation of Montezuma, Costa Rica

While a small number of expats had purchased land in the area in the latter part of the 20^th century, Montezuma’s popularity did not truly begin to take off until 1992 when ferry service began from Punteranas to the communities of Playa Naranjo and Paquera. The new ferry route opened the southern part of the Peninsula to vehicle traffic and, with it, opened the flood gates for a new wave of settlers to the region.

Montezuma found itself transformed from a quiet fishing village to a unique destination in its own right. European expats make up the great majority of those seeking the bohemian vibe of the village but North Americans are catching up fast.

Montezuma Today

From small tribal settlements to an agricultural port, Montezuma has metamorphosed into a unique gathering of artistic types, old (and not so old) hippies, surf fanatics, and nature lovers. The permanent population has remained small (around 500 people) and the economy is centered around eco-tourism and bohemian escapism.

Importantly, prices in Montezuma have remained very modest, making it an ideal location for those seeking to drop out of the rat race of 21^st century life without having to spend the proverbial arm-and-a-leg.  The welcoming laid-back atmosphere and open air lifestyle are unique, not only in Costa Rica, but throughout much of the world.

Many Reasons to Visit Montezuma, Costa Rica

Montezuma is special in that its location offers a wide variety of diverse ecosystems for visitors and expats to experience and enjoy.  Having a chance to immerse oneself in the natural beauty of the region as well as the cultural experience of a true Costa Rican small town can make for a life-changing experience.

Waterfalls, Rivers, and Beaches

One of the most special features in Montezuma, not found in other beach communities, are the renowned Montezuma Waterfalls. Located within walking distance of the town, visitors to the falls can play in the pool at the bottom, enjoy a picnic lunch, or follow a jungle trail to hike to the top of the falls.

There are eight different beaches as well as a half dozen rivers and streams in the area. Whether cooling off in the fresh water of a jungle stream or sunning on pristine sands by the ocean, visitors can find themselves entranced by the peacefulness of the natural settings.

Yoga Camps and Alternative Healing

Montezuma has gained a reputation for its yoga and meditation camps as well as a growing number of holistic and alternative healing centers. Meditation services (often offered at some of the hotels), organic foods, and alternative practitioners are a special part of the eclectic atmosphere of the village.

Nature’s Wonderland

Two of Costa Rica’s premier nature preserves, Cabo Blanco (Costa Rica’s oldest national park) and the Curu Wildlife Refuge, are within easy reach of the town. There you can have the rare privilege of seeing the wide variety of birds, mammals, reptiles, and amphibians that call Costa Rica home.

Montezuma Gardens, located along the waterfall trail, features a butterfly garden, as well as a display of the flora of the peninsula. Learning about the lifecycle and seeing different varieties of these delicate winged creatures provides a different avenue into the world of nature.

Tortuga Island tours are available from the village and offer the opportunity to swim, snorkel the volcanic reef, or just enjoy the island’s beauty. Another island, San Lucas, site of Costa Rica’s first prison, also has tours available. Now closed, legend has it that the ruins are haunted by those once held there.

Food and Drink

Montezuma has had a reputation as a mellow party town with its collection of musicians, artists, and others who heard the beat of a different drum. A number of bars and restaurants are clustered in the center of the village and are open late.

Chico’s Bar is considered by both locals and visitors as ground zero for the party. Being in the middle of town, guests can hang out in the street or enjoy a more serene setting on the beach in back.

For a small place, there is a truly diverse selection of cuisines in Montezuma. Italian, Mediterranean, Organic, Tipico (Costa Rican), Middle Eastern, Seafood, and Fusion can all be found there, appealing to every taste.

Festivals and Celebrations

The Montezuma International Film Festival is held each November. Focused on the efforts of independent filmmakers from around the globe, this venue provides a chance for the “Spielbergs” of the future to showcase their talents and enjoy the funky artistic vibe of the area.

The Festival de Arte Chunches de Mar held in January brings together musicians, artists, and craftspeople who create, perform, and camp on the beach for a month. In a real sense, this annual arts and music celebration has much of the same vibe as the original Woodstock concert, actually billed as the Woodstock Music & Arts Fair.

Making Montezuma the Place for a Permanent Vacation

Expats are discovering that this little piece of backpacking paradise might be the answer to finding a spot for a “permanent vacation.”  Montezuma, Costa Rica and the surrounding communities in the southern Nicoya Peninsula offer a wide range of real estate choices from quaint and offbeat eco-structures to luxury villas. The affordability of undeveloped lots makes building your own “escape pod” a viable option as well.

Great Cost of Living

Things are simply less expensive in Montezuma than many other beach towns in the country. The commitment to a more natural lifestyle has made the availability of locally made and grown products one of the attractions of living there.

Being able to get to most places on foot or by bike means transportation costs are greatly reduced. The ferry to Punteranas is an inexpensive way of connecting to the rest of the country and the excellent public bus system that operates throughout the region.

Property costs are also on the lower end of the scale. It is not necessary to have huge sums to purchase your piece of paradise.

A Chance to Reconnect with Life

Perhaps the most attractive feature of expat life in Montezuma is the pace of living itself. There are a large number of alternative health and yoga retreats to provide a more holistic approach to living in a pura vida way.

Even Paradise Has Things to Consider

For all the special qualities of the Montezuma, Costa Rica area, there are a number of concerns that can impact a decision to visit or relocate there. Even paradise has some bumpy roads.

First, and foremost is the fact that the area is difficult to access. With no international airport nearby, visitors would have to fly into Liberia or San Jose and make their way from those points. There are two domestic carriers that fly to nearby Tambor Airport but, from there, a cab ride is still needed to reach Montezuma.

One of the major drawing cards of Montezuma is its rustic ambiance.  For visitors seeking an all-inclusive or higher-end hotel, there simply aren’t any in the village. If being pampered is a prerequisite for your vacation, Montezuma is probably not for you. Similarly, if having the kind of access one would find in a more urbanized setting is a necessity for your tropical paradise, this relaxed community may not be the best fit.

As with other small towns and villages in Costa Rica, much, if not all daily business is conducted in Spanish. For some, the language barrier could be an insurmountable obstacle to making the location a new home.

In the end, the question that should be asked before making the trek to Montezuma is whether an eclectic beach town, in an out-of-the-way location, is the idyll that you’ve been looking for.  Answer that question, and the path becomes clear.

Map of Montezuma, Costa Rica

Lake Montezuma, Costa Rica Fast Facts

• Population: Aprox. 500
• Typical temperature: Average temperature 84 to 90°F
• Nearest airport with U.S. flights: San Jose’s Juan Santamaría International Airport
• Nearest U.S. consulate: San Jose, Costa Rica