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Santa Teresa, Costa Rica Is an Understated Gem

There are special places whose essence is not driven by modern amenities or convenience but, rather, a more primal and rustic style of living. Santa Teresa, Costa Rica – with its ample beaches and fishing village aura – has become one such location for expats seeking a more naturally connected existence.

From high-end developments to rustic beach towns, Costa Rica has a vast selection of real estate options. Places like Santa Teresa, in the southern Nicoya Peninsula, call to those who truly are seeking to embody a “Robinson Crusoe” spirit to find their own secluded ocean hideaway.

Santa Teresa, Costa Rica

Santa Teresa Beach

Santa Teresa, Costa Rica Is an Understated Gem

Santa Teresa, like most of the small fishing villages in the southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula has not yet been caught up in the surge of development and modernization that had predominated much of Costa Rica’s Pacific coast. Linked by a single, unpaved road to Playa del Carmen and terminating at the hamlet of Mal Pais, this region is only now beginning to see signs of expat investment and construction.

From a population of a few hundred, the Santa Teresa-Mal Pais area has grown to a surf-bohemian magnet of 2,000-3,000 full time residents. Some “A “ list personalities, like Mel Gibson and Gisele Bündchen have purchased lots and built homes there; fortunately, the location is still largely pristine and not turned into a high-end tourist mecca.

The entire location is collectively known to locals as “Mal Pais” or “bad country.” The origin for this nickname is not the unpaved conditions of the roads but due to the rivers and streams going dry during the summer months making this a “bad country” for the farmers and ranchers who still live and work in the region.

Ironically, the conditions of the road have become a source of controversy among the residents here. While there are those who think paving would be beneficial in terms of reducing the amount of dust in the village, others are concerned that making access easier could lead to the kind of over-development that has dominated other communities such as Tamarindo.

Much to See and Even More to Experience

There are many opportunities for exploration and recreation in and around Santa Teresa. Whether your tastes are centered around the beach, the ocean or inland, the choices are both plentiful and exciting.

Surfing is, as might be expected, one of the principal activities along the southern Nicoya Peninsula coast. With consistent wave conditions year round, wave riders have made their pilgrimage to Santa Teresa for many years.

There are many surf camps and shops specializing in surfing supplies and board repair in the area. Two of the surf camps – Chica Surf Adventures and Pura Vida Adventures – are for women only; certainly a unique aspect to the traditional surfing lifestyle that expats can immerse themselves in.

In a kind of spiritual contrast to the adrenaline-fueled experience of challenging the surf breaks along Santa Teresa’s beaches, a growing number of yoga retreats have also sprung up. With the natural serenity and unspoiled beauty of the surrounding area, expats seeking the inner peace of quiet meditation can find a most conducive environment here.

Expats can also enjoy the many snorkeling and fishing opportunities found offshore from the village. There are a number of inshore fishing charters that can provide both beginning and veteran anglers the opportunity to land mahi-mahi, dorado, and other denizens of the deep.

Santa Teresa Is Proof that “Life Is a Beach”

The coastline running from Santa Teresa southward to Mal Pais was recently identified by Forbes Magazine as one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world. With this kind of recommendation, there is little wonder that a growing number of sun and sand aficionados have made the trek to this remote Nicoya Peninsula location to experience the stunning vistas first hand.

santa teresa, costa rica

Stephanie Rogers

Natural Wonders and Other Land Activities

Not all of Santa Teresa’s attractions are centered around the ocean. The first national park in Costa Rica, Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve is just a short distance from both Santa Teresa and Mal Pais.

Founded in 1963, in large part due to the efforts of Olaf Wessberg and his wife Karen Mogensen, the reserve has become known for its wide variety of flora, fauna, and over 150 avian species as well.

Another nature park, the Curu Wildlife Refuge, provides a special opportunity to experience a great selection of eco-diversity in a single location. With five distinct eco-systems within the park’s borders, there is a tremendous opportunity to see a wide collection of mammals, birds, reptiles, and amphibian species during a single visit.

Celebrations and Culture

Like so much of Costa Rica, Santa Teresa has a distinct culture and flavor over and beyond that which expats have introduced. One of the charms of the area is being able to immerse oneself in the daily lifestyle of the region and its people.

The sabaneros (Costa Rican cowboys) represent a lifestyle that has been an important part of the Nicoya Peninsula culture.  Each February, this lifestyle is celebrated with the arrival of the Fiestas Civicas de Cobano.

This two week event honors the culture and traditions of cattle ranching and the sabaneros who are a part of it. In addition to food, contests, and musical concerts, the major event is the rodeo.

Just like their counterparts in the U.S., the sabaneros compete at various skills like roping and bull riding to demonstrate their prowess. The most unique event, however, is the “rodeo for everyone” that allows anyone who wants to participate to run with the bulls in the ring. This certainly elevates the traditional concept of a rodeo to a new level of spectator sport.

Contemporary Living Is Starting to Arrive in Santa Teresa

While locals and many of the early expats are not happy about it, progress is starting to make inroads in the Santa Teresa-Mal Pais locality. The last decade of increased tourist activity has spawned a number of new development projects and resorts.

Luxury resort type hotels and gourmet restaurants are beginning to appear side by side with yoga retreats and surf camps. Along with this tourist-driven growth, a number of residential projects ranging from single family villas to gated communities are in the planning stages.

Santa Teresa’s challenge in the coming years will be to maintain its ambiance as a place where it’s still possible to reconnect with nature without modern distractions. Even as more attention is being given to the region, the idealism of those who became disenchanted with life in Europe and the U.S. during the recession is a strong force to keeping that pura vida vision alive.

Santa Teresa, Costa Rica

Santa Teresa

Challenges of Living in a Rustic Environment

While living in a small bohemian style hamlet may seem like “paradise” found, there are several important aspects that should be taken under advisement. Certain elements of daily contemporary life in the U.S., Canada, and Europe may be found wanting in Santa Teresa and could turn the romantic idyll into something far less attractive.

Getting There Isn’t Half the Fun

The allure of living in a place without a paved road has a serious downside. A four-wheel drive vehicle is almost a necessity as visitors have to deal with jarring potholes during the dry season and a veritable sea of mud during rainy season. Needless to say, vehicle maintenance costs should also be considered as well as access to mechanical services.

There isn’t any fast way of getting to Santa Teresa from either San Jose or Liberia-the location of the two international airports in Costa Rica. The drive from San Jose to Santa Teresa is roughly six hours whether by bus or car; from Liberia the time is slightly less-in the four to five hour range.

While there are no direct flights to Santa Teresa, the two domestic carriers, Sansa Air and Nature Air, do offer flights to nearby Tambor Airport. Once there, visitors can expect a forty minute taxi ride to get to the village; the cost is in the neighborhood of $50.00.

Getting Your Point Across – the Language Issue

As is the case with many small and/or remote communities in Costa Rica, the predominant language for everyday transactions is Spanish. With such a small expat population, finding an English speaker can be somewhat confounding.

While some people may embrace learning a new language, the prospect of not being able to express oneself – or understand what others are saying to you – may be a difficult hurdle to surmount.

Bohemian and Rustic Are Definitely the Themes

There are limited modern amenities in the Santa Teresa-Mal Pais area. For most of the 20th century, such common items as cars, telephones, and refrigerators were practically unheard of.

As might be expected in such a small community, options for shopping for basics like groceries are going to be limited. Higher-end items such as appliances, computers and televisions, and vehicles will require a journey to San Jose, Liberia or Tamarindo. Balancing a life less scripted on one hand with the conveniences of being able to obtain needed or wanted items on the other is an important question that a potential expat needs to examine carefully.

Electricity did not become available in this end of the Nicoya Peninsula until the mid-1990s. The first street light wasn’t installed until 1993 and telephone service didn’t become truly accessible until the late 1990s.

While there is slow improvement (high speed internet access is now available for example), the area is still largely an undeveloped, unpaved paradise.  If truly “living off the grid” is not something of interest to you, serious thought should be given before making Santa Teresa, Costa Rica your tropical “landing pad.”

Map of Santa Teresa, Costa Rica

Santa Teresa, Costa Rica Fast Facts

  • Population: Numbers are hard to find, but a good guesstimate is 1,200
  • Typical temperature: Mid 80’s
  • Nearest airport with U.S. flights: San Jose
  • Nearest U.S. consulate: San Jose

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